The Best of BC Malbec
Residing no longer in French obscurity, there’s no denying that this once fourth-fiddle Bordeaux variety has found its adoptive home in the vinous crucible of Argentina.
Historically considered primarily a blending partner, we now see it flourishing as a single-varietal, naked and unashamed. Its inky purple hue, medium tannin, dark fruit character, and congeniality with the spice of oak make it an easy favourite for red wine lovers, and approachable for the coy consumer.
Today, on World Malbec Day (April 17), we celebrate Malbec!
Vinified on its own, it can sometimes lack the complexity, finesse, and lengthy finish of great Cabs and Merlots, but in deft hands and ideal conditions Malbec can occasionally shake off its rustic robes and deliver something outstanding. Thick-skinned and packing bold flavours, the Malbec grape is a mid-season ripener but still needs lots of heat and sun to fully develop. It’s also more susceptible to frost and mildew, so careful management is required and drier conditions are preferred.
Once again, BC has the recipe for success! 150 acres of Malbec are planted in BC, accounting for just over 1% of total grapes. The South Okanagan and Similkameen are well suited for Malbec, which we are about to explore. I am featuring just a few examples of 100% Malbec from our beloved local producers, who provided the wines for this article. There are many more out there, so I invite you to please go forth and discover, get your BC wine passport, and enjoy Malbec year-round!
Featured wines (in no particular order)
The results were mind blowing - the diversity is astounding! Are these really all from the same province??
Available for wine club members only. The youngest of the lineup, this is the only 2022 vintage represented. Grapes come from their Anastasia vineyard on the Naramata bench - could this be the most northern-grown Malbec in the world? After fermentation with multiple daily pumpovers, the wine was pressed off and aged for 9 months in French oak, 36% new. Coming in at 13.3% alcohol, this is the lightest body Malbec of the group, but not to be dismissed. Despite not characterizing varietal typicity, this is deliciously funky with a definite earthy and mushroom quality. Soft, juicy and delicate, elevated acidity and quiet tannins, this reminds me of a Barbera d’Asti. I want more.
Mooncurser 2020 Malbec (Gold, All Canadian Wine Championships; Silver National Wine Awards of Canada; Platinum, Great Northwest Wine Platinum Awards)
Sold out at the winery! Grown on loamy sand with silica and granite, on the Osoyoos east bench with southwest aspect. Fruit was hand picked, sorted, and destemmed, fermented without crushing with multiple daily pump overs. Wine was aged in French oak, 25% new, and was filtered but left unfined. 14.5% alcohol. One wonders whether riper fruit than this could possibly be achieved. So rich with macerated dark fruit and baking spice, I cannot uncouple my association with glühwein. There is good mid-palate weight with medium acidity, firm tannin and a mineral finish. Malbec, Malbec, on the wall, who’s the ripest of them all? It’s this one.
Mt. Boucherie 2021 Reserve Malbec
Sourced from a Cawston vineyard in the hot, dry Similkameen valley. The wine was aged in French oak (35% new) for 22 months. 13.5% alcohol. With qualities of medium acidity, grippy tannin, and notes of plum and dark fruit compote, wet slate, cigar box, and dried herbs - close your eyes - could this be a Bordeaux? The balance and complexity are there to be sure. Well done.
Another progeny of the Similkameen, organically grown on the Upper Bench in Keremeos. Hand harvested, steel fermented, and aged 18 months in French oak, 25% new. 13.7% alcohol. Their first Malbec vintage to include the latest plantings from 2018. This wine screams character from the moment you put your nose in the glass. Greeted first with white pepper, then blackberry and blueberry, liquorice, and earth. The palate follows up with juicy dark fruit enhanced by ripe tannic structure and gentle spice. Acidity is pronounced and carries through a decadent finish. Pretty exceptional.
Available to members only. Fruit comes from the Naramata Bench and Osoyoos vineyards, hand picked, sorted, and destemmed. Berries were crushed and cold soaked, with twice daily pump overs during fermentation. Aged 21 months in French oak, 15% new with the remaining barrels on their second and third use. Further extensive bottle aging of 14 months before release. 13.9% alcohol. Perfumed with violets and rose petals, with a meaty weight - this is very Syrah-adjacent. Plenty of dark fruit as well, medium acidity, tannins demanding attention, and a peppercorn finish. Lovely.
Riverstone 2021 Malbec (Silver, All Canadian Wine Championship; Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada)
Another member exclusive! Hand-harvested from their south-facing River Rock (Oliver) and Red Brick (Osoyoos) vineyards. 80% of the fruit was left whole-berry, uncrushed. Fermentation was in stainless steel and smaller totes for increased skin contact. Aged 14 months in French oak, 33% new. 14.2% alcohol. Bold cedar and peat smoke up front, oh there’s the fruit - on the palate. Velvety texture, modest acidity, smooth tannins, rich weight but not over extracted. Bona fide fireside companion.
Road 13 John Oliver Series 2020 Malbec
From their sun-soaked east Osoyoos vineyard block, fruit is harvested and sorted by hand. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in French oak, 40% new, for 18 months. A heavy hitter at 14.6% alcohol. Raspberries and clove on the nose, and a bit of earth - warm and inviting. Nothing stands out or seems out of place, showing considerable restraint and balance. Tannins are gentle and lingering, and there is little tension. The wine simply dissolves on the palate, with a sustained finish. Remarkably refined yet very approachable.
Malbec typically is paired with lean and well-seasoned red meat, lamb, and game. I would recommend steak au poivre, bison burgers, or spiced turkish lamb with mint. Other great options would be Southern BBQ or blackened salmon. Outside of meat, try with funky, rich cheeses, or roasted and hearty vegetable and mushroom dishes. More adventurous gourmands may be rewarded by incorporating dark chocolate or cocoa into the pairing, such as a mexican mole or not-too-sweet tiramisu. For these, choose a Malbec with longer oak aging.
Malbec’s story from virtual anonymity to international acclaim is cause alone for celebration. Its success in BC is a fortunate and deliberate result of inspired, forward-thinking and dedicated winemaking. Just look at the attention to detail in the winemaking notes above - impressive! Many producers only have limited quantities available, often only selling to wine club subscribers.
Despite playing a minor role in the BC wine scene, there are clearly ample treasures scattered among our warm valleys, worthy of praise on International Malbec Day and every other. Speaking of which, I have some praising to do - these bottles need finishing!
Matt Tinney blind tasting 7 Malbec Wines from British Columbia.
This article was written by our Contributor, Matt Tinney.