Best of BC Malbec
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
Residing no longer in French obscurity, there’s no denying that this once fourth-fiddle Bordeaux variety has found its adoptive home in the vinous crucible of Argentina. Historically considered primarily a blending partner, we now see it flourishing as a single-varietal, naked and unashamed. Its inky purple hue, medium tannin, dark fruit character, and congeniality with the spice of oak make it an easy favourite for red wine lovers, and approachable for the coy consumer.
Today we celebrate Malbec!
Vinified on its own, it can sometimes lack the complexity, finesse, and lengthy finish of great Cabs and Merlots, but in deft hands and ideal conditions Malbec can occasionally shake off its rustic robes and deliver something outstanding. Thick-skinned and packing bold flavours, the Malbec grape is a mid-season ripener but still needs lots of heat and sun to fully develop. It’s also more susceptible to frost and mildew, so careful management is required and drier conditions are preferred.
Once again, BC has the recipe for success! 150 acres of Malbec are planted in BC, accounting for just over 1% of total grapes. The South Okanagan and Similkameen, which we are about to explore, are well suited for Malbec due to their ability to reliably ripen this variety. Because of its unique geography, the Naramata bench, despite being at the northern limit for many red wine grapes, can also produce excellent Malbec. In his category overview for ‘Other Single Red Varieties’ at the 2023 National Wine Awards, Master of Wine Geoffrey Moss wrote, “...Okanagan malbec is so compelling: enticing aromatics, expressive dark fruit, and a distinctive, savoury freshness. At this stage, Malbec has rightfully earned its own seat at the table.”
Malbec typically is paired with lean and well-seasoned red meat, lamb, and game. I would recommend steak au poivre, bison burgers, or spiced turkish lamb with mint. Other great options would be Southern BBQ or blackened salmon. Outside of meat, try with funky, rich cheeses, or roasted and hearty vegetable and mushroom dishes. More adventurous gourmands may be rewarded by incorporating dark chocolate or cocoa into the pairing, such as a mexican mole or not-too-sweet tiramisu. For these, choose a Malbec with longer oak aging.
Below I am featuring just a few examples of 100% Malbec from our beloved local producers, who provided the wines for this article. Because of how little is grown here, production is usually small and therefore quantities are very limited. There are many more out there, so I invite you to please go forth and discover, get your BC wine passport, and enjoy Malbec year-round!
Featured wines
Deep Roots 2021 Malbec
You have to understand how incredible it is that Naramata Malbecs are making this list every year. It shouldn’t work this far north - yet it does. 7 days pre-fermentation maceration extracts maximum colour, flavour, and tannin. Aging was carried out in new and used French oak for 18 months. This vintage’s heat dome benefitted Malbec as long as smoke wasn’t an issue, which doesn’t seem to be the case here. The inky purple depths (nearly onyx at the core) exude tart dark berries, baked plum pudding, baking spices, cocoa, sweet tobacco leaf, and potpourri. Elevated acidity and grippy tannins give this wine resolute structure and aging potential. When you’re ready to open this knockout wine, get those steaks on the grill. Purchase this bottle ($30.35) here.
Narrative 2019 Malbec
Fruit sourced from Osoyoos underwent wild fermentation in concrete tanks, followed by 11 months aging in concrete. Narrative once again simultaneously subverts expectations and impresses. Semi translucent and garnet in colour, with just 12.5% abv. Is this Bourgogne? Aromas suggest so - incredible, intense wild berry bramble, cherry bubblegum, violets, and damp earth. The palate is layered with juicy dark fruits, meanwhile the tannins have dissolved into cashmere threads. Drink this relatively light-bodied Malbec now, ideally with a charcuterie picnic. Purchase this bottle ($26.99) here.
Adega On 45th 2019 Malbec
Founded in 2011 by the Nunes and Farinha families from Portugal, Adega was recently acquired by Gate 22 Winery with Christa-Lee McWatters as vice president. This Osoyoos estate Malbec is cold soaked prior to fermentation, then aged in French oak for 12 months. The cooler 2019 vintage emphasizes tart blackberry and plum beneath a warm blanket of butterscotch, vanilla, cocoa, and cloves. Lift is provided by eucalyptus aromas, and maturity is evident in the notes of dried fig, date, and blueberry honey. Structure is built on marbling acidity and firm but agreeable tannins. The long finish is mostly dominated by oak influence and some dusty dark berries.
Moon Curser 2022 Malbec (Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada; Gold, All Canadian Wine Championships)
Almost identical winemaking to their 2020 reviewed last year: hand picked, sorted, and destemmed, fermented without crushing, in stainless steel. 27% new French oak barrels, the remainder neutral barrels, held this wine dormant for 12 months. Ripeness takes centre stage as I’ve come to expect from Moon Curser’s Christian Scagnetti, though 2020 will be a hard year to beat. Sun soaked blackberries, cassis, and black plums are complemented by even more fruit: dried blueberries, cranberries, currants, dates, and figs. Pretty accents of potpourri and spices complete the profile. There is plenty of acidic backbone and velvety tannins along with the berry cobbler finish. Purchase this bottle ($38.99) here.
The Hatch 2017 Greatest love of Mal
Jason Parkes produced this Malbec from the Hans Estate Vineyard on the Osoyoos East Bench. The wine spent 38 months aging in 47% new French oak and 53% neutral oak. What was once intensely deep purple in youth is now approaching garnet. A powerful ‘statement maker’ wine no doubt, and a richer, hotter, meatier style. Packed with dark fruit and bumbleberry pie, baking spices, mocha, vanilla, game, and savoury. Full bodied and rich but still agile thanks to fresh acidity and plentiful fine tannins. Everything has melted together really nicely and this should last for several years more.
Black Swift 2020 Hans Estate Vineyard Malbec
Another Jason Parkes Malbec from the sandy soils and glacial deposits of the same vineyard on the Osoyoos East Bench. Harvested in late October and matured in 100% neutral oak for 39 months. The extra hang time on the vine gives incredibly dense fruit character of bramble and blueberry, complemented by a little spice, cedar and smoke, and rose petal accents. The tannins are ripe and smooth, and partnered with equally ripe acidity, they form a muscular structure that leads the experience. Tall, dark, and handsome. Purchase this bottle ($65.99) here.
Crown & Thieves 2020 Crybaby Malbec
The backstory for this wine involves some special barrels, acquired by Jason Parkes from a Chileno cooper, which were previously used for Argentinian Malbec. The total maturation program for this 100% Malbec from Hans Estate Vineyard is 32 months in 50% new oak, 50% neutral. Smoothness was the goal and smoothness is the reality. Concentrated stewed dark plums and bramble are met by buttered toast, nutmeg, and cloves. There’s a little dustiness too, but this wine is primarily led by the fruit character and oak influence. Complexities are more subtle, and acidity is curtailed for velvety texture. I’m not crying, you’re crying. Purchase this bottle ($55.99) here.
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
The results of these tastings are mind blowing - the diversity is astounding! Are these really all from the same province?? It is still not widely known that Malbec can be so expressive here in BC. It’s one of those ‘if you know, you know’ emerging wines with a small but ardent fan club. I really don’t think there’s a more exciting red in our province right now.
Malbec’s story from virtual anonymity to international acclaim is cause alone for celebration. Its success in BC is a fortunate and deliberate result of terroir intersecting with inspired, forward-thinking, and dedicated winemaking. Despite playing a minor role in the BC wine scene, there are clearly ample treasures scattered among our warm valleys, worthy of praise on International Malbec Day and every other.
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).