The Marvel of BC Cabernet Franc
The final ‘International Wine Day’ article on the blog this year will be a real treat for BC wine enthusiasts. Although it is not our top variety (that would be Merlot), it is experiencing substantial growth in vineyard area and consumer preference (which do tend to go hand in hand).
As a parent to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this is a variety with deep history, well-integrated into global wine culture. It’s highly versatile, and equally competent as a blending partner or going it alone. Full of fruity and savoury, herbaceous character and easy to recognize (and easy to love), we are celebrating Cabernet Franc!
This grape’s fame comes from Bordeaux blends where it provides support to soft, cozy Merlot or more aggressive Cab Sav. It’s also renowned in the Loire valley, where it produces varietal wines of structure and complexity. New world winemakers have fallen in love with Cab Franc and its many applications. It can be used for fruity, crisp rosés and gorgeous Meritage blends, but perhaps its apogee is in warm-climate, terroir-driven statement-makers that are 100% Cabernet Franc. This is where I believe British Columbia excels.
Compared to its more widely planted offspring, Cab Franc buds and ripens earlier, which makes it very useful in regions that don’t get enough heat energy over the growing season to fully ripen more demanding varietals. But even when fully ripe, it remains delicate and soft, and therefore more approachable in youth. Baked in a heat wave, Merlot might get too ripe and raisiny but Cab Franc will still exhibit grace and congeniality. The vine is also particularly cold hardy, another desirable quality for thriving in BC’s interior. As you can see, these are the makings of a superstar grape in our province.
These stellar qualities have not escaped local wine producers. As of 2014, Cab Franc has eclipsed Syrah for fourth place in terms of plantings. We now have approximately 940 acres in BC, appearing most prevalently in Oliver, Osoyoos, the Similkameen, and Lillooet. I have written previously about this grape’s candidacy as a torchbearer for the future of wine in BC. Since 2008, Cabernet Franc vineyard area has shot up a staggering 58% - more growth than any other variety and a skyward trajectory that demands attention.
To help understand our wines, we can draw a comparison to Ontario. Cabernet Franc is also high on their list, with 1400 acres and 11% of their total production. Their cooler climate results in bright, lighter red wines with energy and finesse. Our own wines benefit from warmer regions where ripe wild berries and plums can be expressed, along with characteristic floral and herbaceous aromas. Fresh raspberries along with flavours of sage, tobacco, and vegetal notes like bell pepper are also common. In combination with higher temperatures, we also have cool nights, which allows the wines to retain acidity and therefore boast freshness and structure as well. Last but not least, the fine-grained, fudgy texture is to die for.
Matching wines with food is not complicated, as Cabernet Franc typically does not have tight, toothy tannins, or lack in acidity. It is more similar in mouthfeel to Merlot, and I think Cab Franc is more interesting and appealing on the nose and palate. Its unique profile of sage/rosemary/bay leaf, peppers, peppercorns, and chilies facilitates a sweet-savoury union, and can handle foods with plenty of herbs and spice. With robust, oak-aged wines you can pair with anything from strong cheeses to pizza, burgers, mushroom pasta, lasagna, stewed lentils, roast vegetables, and all sorts of meat (lamb, italian sausage, roast pork, steak, BBQ brisket, venison back straps, etc.). These are all tried and true recommendations. For something outside the box, try with all-dressed or ketchup chips, turkey-cranberry sandwich, char siu, tabbouleh, fresh summer rolls with basil and mint, cabbage rolls, cinnamon plum cake, and so much more. Experiment yourself with complementary flavours of herbs and spices, peppers, and match the wine’s body, which ranges from medium to full.
If you’re not familiar with BC Cabernet Franc, prepare to be blown away with these 8 premium samples, all generously provided by the wineries for this feature.
Fort Berens Reserve Cabernet Franc 2021
The Reserve is made from select rows of Fort Berens’ Dry Creek Vineyard on their Lillooet estate. After 3 days cold soaking, the fermenting wine received multiple daily pumpovers and punchdowns for vigorous extraction, followed by 8 days post-fermentation maceration on the skins. The wine is aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 55% new and 45% second fill. Dense ruby in colour, and equally dense on the nose with red and black berry compote, potent spice, dusty lavender, campfire smoke, and a deep, earthy, chocolatey biscuit sensation. Yet there is a bright and lifted quality as well which seems to defy gravity, suspending the enormous weight. The acidity and tannins are bold but not abrasive, providing a confident and stoic structure. The finish is long and velvety. Oaky dokie smokie!
Vasanti Cabernet Franc 2021
Gold medal winner at the Top BC Wine Awards 2024. A club member exclusive! The grapes are harvested from the Osoyoos East Bench, and during fermentation they perform 3 pump overs daily to fully extract tannin, colour and flavour. A robust aging program is carried out in 100% new American oak barrels for 19 months. This deep crimson red wine has a lot to offer - red fruit candy as well as soft, macerated fruit, stewed plums, herbs, violets, dried fig, smoke and spice, coffee, and vanilla. Christmas pudding in wine form. Elevated acidity maintains freshness and the tannins are moderate and supple. A long, earthy, chocolate-coated cherry finish seals the deal. Jason Parkes has hit another home run.
Free Form Cabernet Franc 2019
Single-vineyard and organic fruit from Osoyoos is featured here. In Free Form style, native yeast fermentation is followed by 11 months aging in Okanagan Crush Pad’s concrete tanks. At just 12% abv this wine is light, tight, and bright. A pale rusty red, what stands out on the nose is raspberry jam. There’s no toast to spread it on, but it is accompanied by strawberry, plum, and red currant, and a bit of spring daisy pushing up through damp earth. With ample acidity and soft tannin, this is compact and energetic despite its age. A unique, lighter expression demonstrating the versatility of BC Cab Franc, and a must in any such lineup.
Narrative Cabernet Franc 2018
Another project out of Okanagan Crush Pad, telling the story of BC terroir through concrete in lieu of oak. From organic vineyards in Kaleden and Osoyoos, the fruit for this was fermented then aged in concrete tanks for 10 months. This is a pale garnet wine with intense sour cherry and raspberry, strawberry leaf, and some blackberry and plum. A rubbery note seems out of place, but otherwise the fruit is surprisingly sprightly for its age. The mild acidity and milder tannins aren’t enough to carry this wine much further. The body is thin but it is a tasty, light style of Cab Franc akin to our cool climate Pinot Noirs. Drink ‘em if you got ‘em!
Three Sisters Cabernet Franc 2022
Winner of a Gold medal at the 2024 All Canadian Wine Championships. In appearance, aroma, taste, and structure, this wine walks right down the middle of the road. Not too light or dark, neither too thin nor too heavy, never aggressive or timid. The youngest of this lineup, the fruits are red and vibrant - raspberry, red plum, cherry. Likely some new oak barrels have been used for maturation, as well as older or neutral ones. Their influence is supportive and smart, lending flavours of clove, vanilla, and tobacco. Some kind of thiol was present at first, but dissipated after about an hour. There is 14.5% abv but the wine remains medium bodied, light and fresh. A silken finish wraps up the experience in a pretty bow.
Tightrope Cabernet Franc 2021
The International Wine and Spirits Competition awarded this with Bronze this year. A combination of Naramata Estate and Oliver fruit is hand picked, destemmed, and undergoes 5 days of pre-fermentation maceration to extract more colour and flavour. Maturation was carried out in French oak barrels (50% new) for 12 months. Bordeaux inspiration seems to be behind this wine, as you’ll find red berries and blackberry candy, sage and mint, and the spice of oak. The structure hits with serious acid and tannin, and a long, rich and complex finish. Again in Bordelais fashion, 13.5% abv keeps things invigorating. Quel plaisir.
Bordertown Cabernet Franc Reserve 2019
Awarded Silver medals at WineAlign and the LA International Wine Competition 2022. Grapes come from east-facing Osoyoos vineyards on gravelly soils (which are lower in nutrients and allow for more concentrated, characterful wines). Matured in French oak for 20-24 months. Lots of juicy red fruit in this medium garnet wine, expressing allspice, sage, and that roasted chili I’ve been searching for. The structure is bold with elevated acidity, ripe chewy tannins, and 14.5% abv. It is grippy, dense, and the oak is seamless. This is quintessential south Okanagan Cab Franc executed very well. Masterfully blended and a signature wine that you simply must try.
Seaside Pearl ‘Lovers Lane’ Cabernet Franc 2020
Winemaker David Zimmerman unleashed this wine from Keremeos-grown Cabernet Franc. A semi-opaque scarlet red, the fruit character is precise with red berries and plums, along with mint, spice, pink peppercorn, and smoky earth. The irresistible Similkameen profile is buttressed with indulgent acidity and polished tannins, with a long, fat, luscious finish. Alcohol is only 12.6% giving this wine a pleasant refreshing mouthfeel. Production is small at Seaside Pearl so I encourage you to snatch this up in Mt. Lehman before it’s gone. I received a signed sample without etikett - look for the green label.
Final Thoughts
Interestingly, pyrazines (those are the green pepper-like flavour compounds) were not as prominent in these wines as I expected. This could be sampling bias, or a reflection of winemaking intention to limit this characteristic for stylistic reasons. The only way to be sure is to drink more wines.
I am optimistic that the prominence and renown of BC Cabernet Franc will continue to rise. As we rebuild our wine identity after severe trauma (from freeze damage ), we need to put our best foot forward. A variety that doesn’t lose its character in excessive heat, is less vulnerable to freezing, and has the versatility to be made into a variety of styles should surely qualify as marvelous. Put this one on your shopping list. Our sumptuous, fragrant, and appetizing wines from BC are ready for the attention they deserve.
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).