Chardonnay Part Two
Chardonnay is immensely popular and the most widely distributed wine grape in the world. But it is also maligned. We find ourselves currently in a very fortunate time and place in the history of wine production where quality and transparency are increasingly valued.
However, it was not always this way, and some sins of the past leave their indelible mark in the present.
*This is the 2nd Part of a series on BC Chardonnay, exclusively on the UncorkBC blog. Click here for Part 1.
Before the 1980s, Chardonnay was relatively unheard of outside of France. By the 1990s, it had become a household name thanks to vigorous planting in the US and Australia, whose wines are labeled with grape variety as opposed to place of origin. Fast forward to today and you’ll find refreshing, respectable, even exciting Chardonnay from anywhere wine is made. So adaptable and versatile, it can be vinified into a myriad of wine styles. Therein lies both its allure and its dilemma.
There are non-trivial numbers of wine consumers who to this day will turn away Chardonnay. Now everyone has their own tastes and preferences, and I respect that. It’s also true that part of the ‘problem,’ if Chardonnay can be said to have one, is that some producers made (and still make) wines that are just not very good. In trying to emulate a Burgundian style, some went too far and ended up stripping away all character and nuance, bashing at your palate with an oak hammer. Commercially-produced Chardonnay from hot regions like Australia can also be highly alcoholic, and attempts are made to make wines more appetizing by adding some sugar and/or acid. To cut costs, the quality of the fruit becomes secondary. For some high-production wines, oak chips or staves may be used instead of barrels. Yes, it’s cheaper, but it tastes like it too. Wine lovers are savvy though, and these tricks did not go unnoticed. The transgressions hurt, and Chardonnay’s reputation suffered.
Another source of derision for the Chardonnay-averse is the degree to which the wine may undergo malolactic conversion - more on this below. The resulting soft, slippery, rounder texture might put some people off if they’re expecting something light and snappy. The key is to nail the balance point between concentration and expression of fruit, acidity, mouthfeel, and body. No easy feat, but BC wine producers are up to the challenge. These days, it’s become commonplace to see only a minority portion of the wines matured in new oak, and also only a proportion to undergo malolactic conversion. This is the ‘New Wave’ of Chardonnays: fresher, more lively wines.
What is Chardonnay like in British Columbia, you ask? Let’s explore the fundamentals before opening up some fine examples from local producers.
The taste and aroma of BC Chardonnay:
Citrus character like lemon and lime, or green orchard fruits like pear and apple point to cooler climate conditions like those found in regions like Kelowna, Peachland, Summerland, Penticton, Kaleden, or Okanagan Falls. Slopes with north-facing aspect will also slow ripening and produce wines with these characteristics.
Riper, more tropical fruit like yellow apple, peach, or pineapple - these aromas and flavours are found in Chardonnay grown in warmer conditions such as Lillooet, Oliver, Osoyoos, Similkameen, or Naramata and Skaha benches which get longer afternoon sun exposure being on the east side of Okanagan Lake. The same effect can be achieved from south-facing slopes, which receive more concentrated sunshine, in otherwise more northern areas.
Wet stone/crushed rock/mineral character are common in BC Chardonnay and are generally associated with cooler conditions. Some claim that mineral content in the soil results in mineral flavours of the wine, but our understanding of plant physiology and soil science does not support this. Nonetheless, the descriptor is useful because the perception of these aromas and flavours is real, even if their provenance is not understood. For some this is a highly desirable trait that contributes to complexity.
Flint or struck match aromas can result from reductive winemaking techniques, where exposure to oxygen is limited. This can be from using closed, stainless steel or concrete vessels, as oak allows some passage of oxygen into the wine. Again not necessarily a bad thing, but a matter of taste.
Baking spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, or vanilla come from the use of oak vessels, which is also common in BC Chardonnay production. Size matters - larger vessels have a far greater ratio of volume to surface area exposed to the wine, which imparts less influence overall. Your average wine barrel, the smallest size commonly used in winemaking, will give off the most of these flavours (when new).
Yeasty flavours like fresh bread or pastry come from the yeast, of course. As fermentation progresses, yeast cells die and fall out of suspension, collecting on the bottom of the vessel. Winemakers may choose to leave the wine in contact with this lees for extended periods, which can impart certain flavours and aromas. If lees stirring, or bâtonnage, is employed, this enhances the flavours further.
The essence of butteriness in Chardonnay comes about when more astringent malic acid is converted into creamier lactic acid, a natural process called malolactic conversion. This is another winemaking choice and only occurs if the wine is allowed to rest long enough at permissive temperatures, and is facilitated by lactic bacteria. It’s also often used in Viognier production. Some people dislike the resulting texture and buttery flavours, picking up on it right away. I can appreciate that - but don’t shun a whole grape variety because of it! There’s much more to Chardonnay, as I hope you will see.
The colours of BC Chardonnay
Most are pretty similar, on the spectrum from pale to medium yellow. Longer oak aging will deepen the colour. Especially concentrated and sweet versions such as ice wine, although rare, will radiate an intense golden glow.
The texture of BC Chardonnay
As a fairly bland varietal, texture is key when producing excellent Chardonnay. BC producers have different approaches to that end. Unoaked versions retain their fresh, lively, crisp acidity and zippy, electric excitement. For these, lees contact in inert vessels can also soften texture. Oaked wines, especially those with some degree of malolactic conversion, offer a creamier mouthfeel that feels more decadent and lush. Some fall in between with a balance between the two. There is a place for all styles!
Featured wines:
Little Engine 2020 Gold Chardonnay
All estate-farmed from Naramata, different lots are harvested by hand at different times to build complexity. Most fruit is whole cluster pressed, the ripest destemmed and allowed 12 hours skin contact. Fermentation is in French oak barrels (50% new barrels and puncheons), and aged 17 months on lees. Some barrels undergo malolactic conversion. This wine showed the deepest yellow colour of the lineup. The nose is complex and rich with yellow apple, lemon meringue pie, peach cobbler, and toasted spices. Full bodied and round with ribbons of sweet oak, balanced, refreshing acidity, and a long finish. Decadent but not audacious.
Awarded Platinum at the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. One of many Chardonnays in their portfolio, this is a single vineyard expression from the McLean Creek Road Vineyard in Okanagan Falls. This site has a steep south-facing aspect which should allow the Chardonnay to ripen beautifully. The wine is aged 11 months in French oak barrels (22% new) and undergoes complete malolactic conversion. The nose presents aromas of white peach, lemon, apple, wet rock, and buttered toast. The balance between crispness and softness is remarkable and there’s still so much acidity left in there. Tropic Thunder fans might say you should never go full malo, but Meyer did, and it works!
This wine was previously reviewed for Part I in this series. I’d add that with this much acidity, ripe fruit and herbaceous character, I’m curious to see how this develops in bottle over the next few years.
Another single vineyard expression from their Four Shadows vineyard on the Naramata bench. The wine is barrel fermented in French oak with 9 months aging on lees, and 50% goes through malolactic conversion. A refined Chardonnay that’s clean and crisp, with a little salt spray and spice to complement the delicate fruit. Uncomplicated and well made - 2 very good things!
Whole bunch pressed and then fermented in concrete, with aging on lees and some malolactic conversion. There’s just something different about the structure of Haywire wines. They’re able to achieve a certain house style of chalky texture that gives you something to chew on, and invites another sip. A green, almost resinous element sparks curiosity here, brushing shoulders with fresh lemon and apple and streaking acidity. An alternative to the oaked-unoaked paradigm.
Monte Creek 2020 Living Land Chardonnay
Gold medal winner at the All Canadian Wine Championships 2022 and Gold from WineAlign 2022. This wine is a blend of fruit from their Thompson Valley estate and a Similkameen vineyard. The winemaking too is a blend, using both concrete eggs and French oak for maturation, with some batonnage. This is a really delicious and smooth Chardonnay, with ripe fruit and a bit of butterscotch. Everything is right where it should be, and what an incredible value! Unfortunately it’s sold out online but your local store or wine club may still have some - hurry!
Chardonnay food pairing
The term versatility is used for a lot of wines, but it can’t be more accurate than in the case of Chardonnay. Matching the body and intensity is much more important than flavours, because a light-bodied wine will be overwhelmed by a rich dish, and vice versa. The bottom line, as always, is: drink what you like. Here are some recommended pairings by Chardonnay style (expect some overlap!):
Unoaked - lightest in body, and could be either lean, citrusy and sharp, or have more ripe fruit character. Either are great with a platter of mild cheeses, grapes/pears/apples, and crackers. Shellfish and oysters are most welcome here. Also consider sushi, light salads with unsweetened dressings, or chicken pâté. The wine’s crisp acidity will also create a nice contrast with french fries or creamy pasta sauces. Rich, heavy foods will make the wine too abrasive.
Oaked - more full bodied Chardonnays with some malolactic conversion can better pair with rich dishes. Pork, roast chicken or white fish, aged cheeses, fall vegetables, and alfredo/carbonara/rosé pastas work well. You can go from buttery baked scallops on the patio, to sour cream and onion chips on the couch. Foods high in acidity will flatten out and dull the wine.
Sweet wines - for savoury options, blue cheese, sweet and spicy Korean chicken, or seared foie gras. For dessert, the wine should be sweeter than the food - sorbet, crème brûlée, tarte au citron, or cheesecake. Indulge - you deserve it.
It’s clear from the results of this tasting that BC is flying the flag of New Wave Chardonnay. Producers have their fingers on the pulse of evolving styles and are making wines with structure, vibrancy, balance, and minimal intervention. Wines that feel alive! For my blind tasting I once again planted one premium Chardonnay from another New World region with a similar climate, to see where we stand on the global stage. I’m happy to report that the ‘plant’ did not stand out, but rather was in good company. This is further evidence that BC’s performance domestically and internationally with respect to Chardonnay is very encouraging and something to be proud of.
