BC Wine Region Spotlight: Lillooet
BC is a very young wine producer by global comparison.
Yet our complex geological history has given us a diverse geographical playground for making some excellent wines. We have 9 main wine-producing regions, referred to as ‘Geographical Indications’ (GI) in the biz. The largest and most well-known is the Okanagan, which itself can be parceled out into numerous smaller regions or ‘sub-GIs.’ As these popular areas get crowded, and land prices get out of reach, savvy winemakers can become pioneers in the quest for starting something new. In 2018, the BC Wine Authority formally recognized the new GI of Lillooet.
Yes, Lillooet! One of BC’s oldest towns, and youngest wine regions. The area has rich indigenous history and was vital during BC’s Gold Rush era. Agriculture has been a mainstay of the Fraser Canyon for over a century, so why not give it a try with wines? Despite being nearly 200 kilometers north of the US border, Lillooet gets more growing degree days than any other BC region, on par with Osoyoos. That means there’s a lot of heat energy over the growing season to fully ripen the grapes. In contrast to the southern Okanagan however, nighttime temperatures can get briskly cool, and it’s this large swing in temperatures that preserves acidity in grapes and makes for spectacular wines. Young, well-draining soils of low nutrient content provide an ideal substrate for growing vines, as it’s their struggle for water and minerals that produce premium fruit and ultimately, complex and interesting wines.
The founding winery in Lillooet is Fort Berens, established in 2009 after extensive research into sites and soils by a Dutch couple and their young family, following their dream of opening a world-class winery. Within 3 years, the accolades and awards started coming in and they just won’t stop. Fort Berens is a Riesling powerhouse but also produces Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, a white blend, rosé, red blends, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. There is something for everyone, and this is absolutely a producer to keep a close eye on.
The second of only two wineries in this region is Cliff and Gorge, founded by former Whistler councillor Eckhard Zeidler. Grapes were first planted in 2008, with the first vintages produced from 2018 fruit. Here we see a unique, singular approach to winemaking, so devoted to low-intervention that all manipulations, including oak, are eschewed. The philosophy is to simply let the vines speak for themselves. Winery visits are by appointment, where guests are offered self-guided tastings of half bottles of each of their six wines, to be shared by however many are in your party. Whatever you don’t finish can be brought home! Visitors are also encouraged to pack a picnic, and spend some time exploring the area’s stunning scenery via the nature trails on site.
Speaking of which, I’ve not yet discussed the natural beauty of Lillooet, only because I wanted to cover the wine first. Come for the wine, stay for the views, as it were. The backdrop: towering coastal mountains, the swift Fraser, breathtaking cliff sides, and abundant wildlife like deer, black bear, and mountain sheep. Being only two hours from Whistler, you feel transported to another world - a much hotter and drier one in summer! From the east, it’s only a two hour drive from Kamloops or three and a half from Kelowna. While you won’t be able to winery hop all day like in the Okanagan, the drive up to Lillooet, the views, and the wines have the makings for a true adventure.
Good things are coming out of Lillooet, and the coming years are very promising.
Piece written by: Matt Tinney, contributor, uncorkBC
*Special note: Fort Berens is a winery included in the BC Wine Passport, offering guests a complimentary wine tasting.