Big wines from modest Moon Curser
Situated on the Osoyoos East Bench in the far south of BC’s Okanagan Valley is a small winery named Moon Curser. By now they are fairly well known anywhere, equally for their distinctive wines and unique branding, which centres around local history and lore.
That story has been told before. In short, for the uninitiated, Moon Curser is primarily a red wine producer, and besides one very popular Bordeaux blend, they specialize in single-varietals from exotic European grapes seldom seen outside their native regions. The wine names and bottle art are themed after the town’s gold smuggling past.
But there is much more to discover behind the eye-catching labels and uncommon varieties. I stopped by to meet with the winemaker for a tasting and to go beyond the glass.
I’m greeted inside the tasting and sales room by Crystal Coverdale, General Manager of Moon Curser Vineyards. Apparently her responsibilities also include pest control, as just moments before welcoming me, she’d evicted a rattlesnake from the facility. Not to fear, this is the first time that’s ever happened. She then passes me off to winemaker Christian Scagnetti to begin our tour. We start near the sloped rows of Rousanne and Marsanne planted just outside the tasting room. These are looking surprisingly green and faring much better in comparison to the bleak scenes in the Similkameen and elsewhere. Christian is cautiously optimistic, knowing that at any point the vines could still take a turn for the worse. It’s simply a matter of assessing all their vineyards block by block on a regular basis.
Christian has been with the team since 2018, after working for a couple other BC wineries, and in Ontario before that. He has continued to craft award winning wines year after year with Moon Curser, and his skill and passion are immediately apparent. Modest as well, he is quick to credit the land. He’s proud to have the best vineyards on the best sites, all within minutes of their winemaking facilities. The land gives him premium grapes, and it’s his job to simply let them shine.
Christian’s approach is to let the fruit do the talking, and when something works, leave it alone. His harvest decisions are not based solely on measurements of brix but on flavour profiles, which means he’s out there tasting the grapes every day until he’s satisfied. The result of this dedicated focus on precise ripeness is a house style whose wines have unmatched concentration and ripe fruit character.
This commitment to quality is what brought Moon Curser’s Malbec into limelight under Christian’s stewardship. Before, it was a minor part of their portfolio, but now enjoys wide acclaim and is one of their top performing wines. Some vintage variation is to be expected when working with smaller vineyard lots. The 2020 Malbec (see previous blog post here) is richly ripe and weighty, with the balance of hefty fruit and supple spice giving a warm impression of glühwein. The newly released 2022 is featured below.
Maybe you’ve already been a fan of this winery for years. So what’s new at Moon Curser? Rosé! That’s right, 2021 was their first rosé production (primarily Syrah-based), their award winning 2022 is selling out, and their 2023 is hitting shelves soon. “It’s easy to make, easy to sell” says Christian. “We like to do things differently, so we make our rosé with a bit of barrel fermentation and lees stirring for added creaminess.” I can vouch for that - the 2022 is deliciously soft and full of strawberries and cream. Watch for the 2023 release!
Moon Curser also experimented with the oak program for their single-vineyard Contraband ‘The Hill’ Syrah. Instead of the standard practice of 12 months maturation in French and Hungarian barrels, they tried aging a batch for 24 months. Their 2021 vintage, just released this year (to wine club members only) has Christian thrilled. The complexity and weight are just what he was hoping for, and he looks forward to making the 2-year aging standard for this wine.
Alright, now let’s get to the tasting portion. Here’s a brief overview of the 6 excellent wines Christian poured during our visit.
2022 Arneis
Moon Curser is still the only producer of Arneis in Canada. It’s an aromatic, high acid white similar to Sauvignon Blanc, relatively unheard of outside Italy. Christian calls it their little rascal (the translation of the name), as it grows unpredictably for them and shows significant vintage variation. But regardless of the year, it’s a fruity, fresh, unoaked dry style that’s very approachable and well matched with seafood. Saline and mineral character bring balance and complexity to this refreshing and easy drinking white. This was awarded gold at the 2023 All Canadian Wine Championships.
2022 Tempranillo
Tempranillo is another variety seldom seen in BC and Moon Curser is well known for it. Their vines are so vigorous and can produce such huge clusters that dropping green fruit early in summer is a must, in order to achieve desired concentration. In this 2022 vintage Christian aimed for the most authentic Rioja you can expect from the East Bench of Osoyoos. He noticed that their American Oak barrels were getting too potent so he sourced different barrels that would provide him with a more gentle influence, allowing the fruit to shine. The wine’s cherry and plum notes are balanced by cocoa and coffee. The high acidity and tannins, although they’re ‘glassy,’ will help this wine age very well.
2021 Syrah
Syrah is Moon Curser’s mule, accounting for 1/3 of their production. A few past vintages were blended with small fractions of Tannat or Viognier, but this is 100% Syrah. With multiple vineyards to choose from, Christian crafts a conscientious cuvée each year to align with what their consumers and lovers of Okanagan Syrah expect. The 2021 presents with a balance of fruit and florality with meaty texture. Ready to please palates now, or hold onto it for another 10 years to benefit from its development - if you have the patience. This Syrah won silver at the 2023 Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition, silver at the 2023 Cascadia International Wine Competition, and Best of Category and double gold at the 2023 All Canadian Wine Championships.
2022 Touriga Nacional
And now for something completely different. Another variety rarely grown or known outside its homeland (Portugal in this case), Moon Curser has a small planting of Touriga Nacional, from which they make a dry table wine. This is unique and must be tasted to appreciate. Rather than rich jammy and dried fruit like the Port wines from which Touriga is made, this is primarily savoury and fragrant with a potpourri-like nose of spices, flowers, cigars, and dried citrus peel. Gentle French oak influence provides subtle layers of cinnamon and anise. Bronze medal at the 2024 All Canadian Wine Championships, and nominated for the 2024 BC Wine Awards Top 50.
2022 Malbec
As I mentioned, Christian has brought Moon curser’s Malbec into the limelight. The 2022 is a little unlike previous vintages. The crop was massive in that fantastic growing year, and the wine is delicate, elegant. Pretty. Modest French oak use provides chocolate and cigar box earthiness within the firm tannic structure and notable acidity. This wine won gold at the 2024 All Canadian Wine Championships. I look forward to seeing where this goes in future vintages.
2021 Dead of Night
Finally, the flagship. A 50/50 blend of Syrah and Tannat. Christian loves this one because the robust, chewy, bold Tannat has a special place in his heart. Tempered with Syrah, the wine packs big ripe fruit up front, then the acidity and robust tannins well up and consume you as you consume it. A great way to introduce people to an unfamiliar variety. Plenty of complexity and intensity of flavours, and will pair well with all sorts of meat, cheese, and rich savoury dishes. Bronze medal at the 2024 All Canadian Wine Championships.
As you can see, the quality of Moon Curser’s wines is beyond redoubt. Don’t take my word for it though. The accolades certainly tell you something, but the only way to experience these wines is to find them in your local shop or restaurant, or visit the team in Osoyoos! They are waiting for you with fully stocked cellars. So what are you waiting for?
BONUS: Moon Curser is a BC Wine Passport stop offer a complimentary wine tasting experience for each guest!
This blog post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney.