International Riesling Day
March 13 is International Riesling Day, and yes, it’s worth celebrating! After all, in the eyes of many experts, enthusiasts, and enologists, Riesling is the king of grapes.
It can be vinified as still or sparkling, dry, off-dry, ice wine, and with varying degrees of sweetness from botrytis. Riesling’s elevated natural acidity carries it through all these diverse styles, and also makes it particularly age-worthy. It’s a grape that reflects where it’s grown (‘terroir-expressive’), producing aroma and flavour profiles specific to local conditions.
A standout Riesling will have three pronounced qualities: an intense aromatic profile, mouth-watering acidity, and a lengthy finish. Because of the first two factors, oak is rarely used as it would mask the wine’s character. Flavours are primarily in the citrus, green apple, and stone fruit theme. Riesling can often present a certain flavour compound that people variably describe as a kind of petrol or diesel quality. Sounds yuck? Not necessarily - at low levels, TDN (trimethyldihydronapthalene for my chemistry peeps) can be desirable, but trust your own palate. I love it but I know it’s not for everyone.
Now here is the obligatory mention of sweetness. The point to remember is, drink whatever you like, just be honest with yourself! Riesling had a bad rap for decades because all you could really get on the global market was mass-produced sweet wine of poor quality. The aversion to residual sugar has been passed onto generations, but unfairly. All I can ask is that you give it an open mind. Leave your pride at the tasting room door, and if you’re a full-grown human who loves a sweet Riesling, welcome to the club.
As with most white grapes, particularly high-acid varieties, Riesling requires a cool to moderate climate. Despite gradually increasing temperatures, BC still has many regions where Riesling can thrive. In fact, according to the 2022 BC Wine Grape Acreage Report, Riesling is the third most planted white variety, at approximately 665 acres planted. Broken down by region, we can see that growers prioritize Riesling more in relatively cooler areas such as Kelowna, Lake Country, Thompson Valley, and Lillooet (Lillooet actually gets quite hot but nights are comparatively cooler). We are fortunate to have many quality producers in the province that are giving us amazing wines to be proud of. Here are some noteworthy BC examples of this most noble grape.
Well known for their German-influenced white wines, Gehringer Brothers on the Golden Mile Bench in Oliver consistently produces award-winning Riesling, both dry and off-dry versions. The concentration of fruit, aromatics, and balanced acidity are right on the money. These guys know what they are doing.
A little further north we have succulent Riesling coming from Naramata-based JoieFarm Winery, sourcing their grapes from a vineyard in Summerland. Their version is light and structured, with sophisticated balance. Naramata neighbours, Moraine Winery, do more than just dabble in Riesling - their estate-grown (and venerated) Rieslings have become an Okanagan stalwart for juicy, delicious wines at excellent value.
Chronos Wines, under the Time Family of Wines, produces a remarkable Riesling with all the desired varietal characteristics. Grapes come from an East Kelowna vineyard and are fermented in two separate batches - one to complete dryness, the other retaining some natural sugar, and the two batches are blended by the winemaker to the targeted balance point. The 2020 vintage won Gold at the 2022 All Canadian Wine Championships.
There’s a reason why so many BC restaurants have Tantalus Riesling on their wine list: it’s so good it’s become an icon. Some of their Kelowna vines are nearly 50 years old! Their portfolio includes several versions of Riesling (dripping with Gold and Platinum medals) so the next time you visit Tantalus, ask which ones they’re pouring and say yes please!
Even a brief summary of BC Riesling has to include the sensational, internationally lauded wines coming out of Fort Berens in Lillooet. Pioneering one of BC’s youngest wine regions, in a short time they have mastered what it means to make impeccable Riesling that expresses its BC heritage and local climate. I recently did a vertical tasting of 6 consecutive vintages (2014-2019) and was astonished at the consistency, noting only subtle differences due to variation in local climate and vineyard selection. Fort Berens is the real deal.
For my fellow Riesling freaks and all you fans of intensely sweet and concentrated ice wines, my final recommendation is to check out the sublime Riesling Ice Wine from Volcanic Hills in West Kelowna. I still have a couple from their last vintage (2016) in the cellar, and they are now selling their 2022 vintage. This is everything wonderful about Riesling, cranked up to 11. The aroma, fruit, and acid are in flawless harmony. It’s operationally expensive to make ice wine, and understandably the smaller bottles are around twice the price of an average 750ml bottle of wine. But I urge you to at least try it once - there’s simply nothing else like it, and we’re lucky to have conditions in BC that allow us to produce ice wine envied and enjoyed around the world.
Riesling is an excellent food partner, as its bright acidity acts as a palate cleanser. Conventional pairings are with asian cuisines, especially for wines with a bit of sweetness that can counteract spicy dishes. German dishes with pork, onions, and cabbage are other great options. Sweeter versions also pair famously with desserts, from birthday cake to poached pears or apple strudel. The list goes on. Whatever you’re thinking of pairing with your Riesling, just pay attention to the wine’s body and intensity - it’s really hard to go wrong.
Riesling’s versatility is virtually unmatched, and fans love its refreshing acidity and delicate balance in the right hands. Adorned with a multitude of trophies and medals, BC is blessed with plenty of approachable and food-friendly Rieslings, ready to be discovered.
King of grapes indeed.
Piece written by: Matt Tinney, contributor, uncorkBC
Photo Credit: Wines of British Columbia