Celebrate BC Sauvignon Blanc
One of the most commonly planted varieties in the world, and a royal pedigree to its name, this grape is one of a kind. With a distinct aromatic profile, it produces pristine, fragrant, dry wines, and also revered sweet wines.
Native to France and one of the parent varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, today we celebrate Sauvignon Blanc! It’s grown in all corners of the viticultural world and is probably the only one among the top 3 whites in global production that thrives today without having its reputation tarnished in the past 60 years (overly oaked Chardonnay, and sweet but boring Riesling being the affected other two). Hardly a hater to be found, crowd-pleasing Sauvignon Blanc seems to do really well particularly with wine novices and those who don’t really like much else. Wines are fairly consistent whether from South Africa, New Zealand, or Kelowna, which certainly helps its broad appeal. Always approachable and never heavy, wines are typically described as crisp, fresh, and delicate. In cooler regions, its pungent aromas may emulate citrus, grapefruit, gooseberries, grass, and fresh green veg, even jalapeño (without the heat). Unlike any other wines, these have the capacity to deliver a salad in a glass. Warmer climates can coax from the grapes a more tropical character, with aromas and flavours likened to peach, passion fruit, guava, and mango.
Our local winemakers have different methods at their disposal for bringing out the desired characteristics in their wines. Sauvignon Blanc is a markedly vigorous vine, making more expressive wines when grown in poorer soils and with farming methods which control excessive growth. Struggle produces character. When kept shaded, the ripening grapes produce higher levels of methoxypyrazines, the compounds responsible for this varietal’s signature green aromas.
With over 400 acres planted in BC, Sauvignon Blanc is fifth in white wine acreage, or about 3.5% of total grapes. Primarily grown in the Okanagan and Similkameen, its propensity for higher acidity brings welcome freshness no matter the provenance. Sauvignon Blanc’s more elegant nature is well suited to single-varietal and stainless steel production, preserving and emphasizing the powerful aromatics. It is almost always meant to be drunk young - aging in bottle is rare and not usually recommended. Occasionally you will see examples with barrel aging, often blended with Sémillon, which provides a bit more body and texture in this Bordeaux style. Ever the diverse and exploratory tapestry of winemaking, BC has a confident grasp on multiple styles of this noble variety. Here are a few select samples from top BC producers, who provided the wines for this article.
Clos du Soleil 2022 Fumé Blanc (Gold, BC Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards)
*Note: The name Fumé Blanc, a nod to the famous Pouilly-Fumé appellation, has come to be associated with an oaked style of Sauvignon Blanc, initially used by Robert Mondavi to distinguish his dry, barrel-aged wines from the sweet and simple ones commonly produced in the US at that time.
A Bordeaux blend of 69% Sauvignon Blanc and 31% Sémillon, including Keremeos estate-grown grapes as well as Oliver-grown fruit. The lots are vinified separately, with hand harvesting and destemming followed by light crushing and 2 hours skin contact. After pressing, the wines are cool-fermented in both steel tanks and oak puncheons and aged 4 months on lees before final blending. A very approachable blend with attenuated intensity, demonstrating the Similkameen‘s ability to produce nuanced and inoffensive Sauvignon Blanc. All the right floral, vegetal, and fruit qualities are there to be found but the primary impression is that of an agreeable summer standby.
Clos du Soleil 2022 Capella
Their flagship white, a Bordeaux blend of 71% Sauvignon Blanc and 29% Sémillon. Each of the 4 Keremeos vineyard blocks (3 Sauvignon Blanc, 1 Sémillon) is hand harvested, then gently crushed and destemmed. Following 3 hours of skin contact the wine is pressed off and fermented (majority spontaneous) in French oak puncheons and aged 9 months with lees stirring. Ten percent of barrels underwent malolactic fermentation to provide a richer texture. The final blend is from select barrels only. I can find no disagreeable quality here - there is ripe acidity, congruency between ripeness of fruit and aromatic intensity, with the balance erring on the side of restraint. Slightly creamier with just a bit more weight than the Fumé Blanc. Elegant and terroir-driven - a favourite for a reason.
Bench 1775 2022 Sauvignon Blanc
Harvested from their Naramata Bench estate vineyards in late October for maximal ripeness. Grapes are whole cluster pressed and fermented in stainless steel. A standout for showcasing ripe Okanagan Sauvignon Blanc, with beautifully intense tropical aromas of mango sherbet and guava gummy bears. Despite the olfactory presentation, there is little sweetness on the palate, instead suggesting crisper fruit and cooler climes. Not a juxtaposition but rather a reflection of BC terroir. Drinking this, I feel like I’m on vacation.
Blasted Church 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon
65% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Sémillon. Sauvignon Blanc harvested first from Sitrus Hill Vineyard on the north shore of Osoyoos Lake, then a bit later from their Okanagan Falls estate vineyard. Sémillon harvested even later, with all three portions vinified separately in stainless steel followed by six months of aging on lees, in French oak barrels on their second, third, and fourth fill. Soft, round, and fuller bodied, the final blend reveals the winemaker’s intention: elements of fruit and blossom unified in the tender, nutty, butterscotch embrace of oak. On the palate alone, this could almost be mistaken for a California Chardonnay, but the nose betrays its identity.
Church and State 2020 Sauvignon Blanc
Hand harvested from vineyards on the Oliver West Bench and Osoyoos West Bench in late September. Fermentation in steel followed by 6 months aging in 90% steel and 10% French oak barrels. 12.5% alcohol. Supremely characteristic of this varietal and a joy to inhale. A most pungent expression of BC Sauvignon Blanc with grass, gooseberry, and lime peel erupting from a prickly structure that cuts with a serrated edge of acidity. The sparing use of oak affords just perceptible and welcomed roundness. A long mineral finish provides the fermata on this arresting concerto. Casual consumers beware - this is for the apprecionados.
Cedar Creek 2022 Sauvignon Blanc
Another example of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, harvested relatively early to retain bright character and acidity, fermented in stainless steel and rested 3 months on lees. 12% alcohol. Here again we experience the omniscient katana of BC Sauvignon Blanc and surrender to its will. I believe there may have been some concrete or neutral oak as well, judging by the trace of softness without which the wine might be too angular. Respect is earned and for the category, this wine deserves to be among the top in the province. Simple, straightforward, and honouring the variety - there’s nothing here that doesn’t need to be.
Being lighter in body with bracing herbaceousness, Sauvignon Blancs pair best with dishes similar in weight and with fresh green and herbal elements. This could be salads (with or without proteins such as chicken, salmon, or prawns), olive tapenade or babaganoush, pesto pasta, herb-laden ceviche, steamed or poached fish, fresh goats cheese, and mild Asian cuisine. My current favourite is grilled asparagus.
The quality of BC Sauvignon blanc deserves to be recognized as on par with the more globally touted versions from the Loire, Bordeaux, California, Chile, and New Zealand. We can be proud that rather than striving to emulate these, we produce wines with an identity of our own.
This article was written by our Contributor, Matt Tinney.