Best of BC Viognier
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
Most of the time when we’re talking about white wine varieties in BC, these are ‘cool-climate’ grapes like Chardonnay, Riesling, etc. that thrive at our northern latitude. Today we are featuring a white wine grape that loves the heat!
Viognier (Vee-own-yay) is native to France’s Rhône valley and is loved for its floral aromas and luscious texture. There it can be co-fermented with Syrah in some appellations, is often blended with Marsanne and Roussanne in Rhône whites, and for one appellation in particular - Condrieu - the wines are 100% Viognier. Being low-yielding and notoriously difficult to cultivate, it nearly disappeared from the planet in the 1980’s. Fortunately, Viognier experienced a major resurgence in places like California, Australia, and South Africa.
The wine has caught on in BC, and despite still being an overlooked variety, it does enjoy a modest following. As of 2022 we have 235 acres planted, sitting comfortably in 7th place for white grapes. It’s in our more southern (and warmer) regions where you’ll find Viognier thriving. I will always remember one of the wines that blew my mind years ago and encouraged a burgeoning passion. It was the Cedar Creek Platinum Viognier, sourced from the Haynes Creek Vineyard close to the border in Osoyoos. Oliver and Osoyoos are kind of a Goldilocks zone for Viognier, where it’s just right. Hot enough to ripen, but the heat is not so intense or prolonged to over-ripen the fruit and make oily, neutral wine. Having said that, I tasted some memorable BC Viognier last year from producers in three different regions: Bordertown (Osoyoos), Liquidity (Okanagan Falls), and Tightrope (Naramata).
Just like the more popular and recognizable Chardonnay, Viognier is often made in two different styles. The first is fresh, fruity, and unoaked - fantastic during spring and summer, and patio-food friendly. The second style is even softer, silky, and may see some barrel aging for added richness. Viognier is my go-to Chardonnay alternative for holiday meals featuring poultry. Scallops are also a classic pairing with either style.
Its characteristic fragrance (perfumey and fruity) develops late in the growing season, meaning the fruit must hang on the vine long enough to achieve it. The conundrum there is that acidity continues to drop while sugars rise - leaving a flabby, unexciting wine with high alcohol. It takes an experienced and skilled winemaker to produce a Viognier that has beautiful aromatics, inviting texture, and a clean dry finish.
For these reasons, Viognier is often added to white blends, contributing floral aromatics and more body. However, the wines I’m featuring below - all provided on request by the wineries - are 100% Viognier (or darn close), to help demonstrate its unique character.
FEATURED WINES:
Gneiss 2022 Viognier
$29.99.
The previous vintage was fermented 75% in stainless, 25% in barrel, with fruit from a North Oliver vineyard near McIntyre bluff (Gneiss’ home ground). Not sure if the winemaking was the same for this vintage, but this is a handsome introduction to BC Viognier. The palest shade of straw, sweet garden aromas of acacia, honeysuckle, and orange blossom are followed by ripe tangerine, orchard fruit and melon, and a flinty reductive spark. Dry with mouthwatering acidity, the ripe fruit character fills the soft textured mid-palate, framed by a steely edge. Have ready for your next patio party.
Terralux 2019 Reserve Viognier (Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada)
$34.99 retail, 237 cases
Before Jacq Kemp was appointed Head Winemaker, Master of Wine Marcus Ansems produced the earlier vintages for Terralux. Viognier was sourced from S’milka Vista Vineyard in the Similkameen, and whole-cluster pressed with a traditional basket press. The native ferment was held at ambient temperature, and the wine matured in stainless and french oak. The medium gold colour reflects barrel contact and bottle age. Get ready for sensational aromas of golden raisin, honey cakes, orange blossom, toasted nuts, candied peel, and dried apricot. But there’s more - fresh acidity and superb structural balance on the palate, a brush of buttery richness, and an endless finish of dried fruit and honey. Phenomenal and one of a kind.
Terralux 2020 Viognier
$29.49 retail, 256 cases
Similkameen fruit undergoes native fermentation at ambient temperature, with maturation in french oak and stainless steel. Pale lemon yellow, with a complex nose of ripe apricot and charred peach, tangerine, dried citrus peel, orange blossom, nougat, and honey butter. The palate is invigorated with acidity, a plush, nearly full body, and a long finish of ripe fruit, toasted oak, and nutty confectionery. Who needs Chardonnay when Viognier can be as outstanding as this?
Adega 2022 Viognier
$24.99
The Adega estate lies on the east side of Osoyoos Lake, bathing in sunlight from its south-west exposure. Hand-harvested Viognier is whole-cluster pressed then fermented in stainless steel for a bright, crisp expression. Wafting from the pale gold coloured wine are aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle, marmalade, apricot jam, acacia honey, and a little ripe plum and apple. The medium+ bodied palate is equally expressive of fruits and florals, with an oily texture and finish where mostly the bitter phenolics hang on. Still a good South Okanagan example of this varietal.
Bench 1775 2022 Viognier
$24.75
100% Naramata Bench Viognier, cold fermented with some skin contact, and bottled a pale copper-gold. Talk about flipping the script. Delicate aromas and flavours of quince, blossoms, musky spice, and grilled peach are awash with brilliant acidity that drives this dry, structure-forward expression of BC Viognier. I’m excited to see what Bench 1775 can do with any variety.
Laughing Stock 2022 Viognier (Silver, Decanter World Wine Awards)
$28.00, 700 cases
Naramata Bench-based Laughing Stock grows their Viognier at Perfect Hedge Vineyard in Osoyoos. Grapes were whole cluster pressed and fermented in a combination of 69% neutral French oak and 31% concrete egg, aged for 6 months on the lees. Pale lemon in colour, medium intensity aromas of lemon cream, peach, tangelo, spice, and buttery dill. Elevated in body and acidity, with a finish dominated by citrus and spice. This wine shows off impressive structure and perfect balance.
Blasted Church 2023 Viognier (Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada)
$24.00, 428 cases
A cuvée of Skaha Bench Viognier (27% estate, 13% Knollvine Vineyard) and Osoyoos fruit (45% Viognier and 15% Marsanne from Redbrick Vineyard on the Osoyoos East Bench). Whole-cluster pressed, fermented and aged 6 months in french oak. A crowd-pleasing, fruit-forward Viognier expressive of juicy tangerine, apricot, apple, orange blossom honey, and a little vanilla and spice. The oak treatment definitely plays a minor supportive role, while the ripe fruit and soft round texture take the forefront. Don’t miss this one!
Final Thoughts
These wines should change your mind if you’ve doubted Viognier’s worth in our wine culture. I am pleased that this beautiful, unique wine has found a place in the diverse tapestry of British Columbia wine. A little like Chardonnay, a little like Gewürztraminer, but distinctly itself, I expect Viognier to remain a minor but enduring component of our rich BC wine scene. The next time you go to a tasting, don’t skip the Viognier!
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).