Spotlight: Bonamici Cellars
Quietly nestled into Okanagan Falls lies Bonamici Cellars, where wine is celebrated as something that brings together friends and family. Co-owner Mario Rodi shares their story and their unique wines with uncorkBC.
A 1st generation Italian Canadian, Mario grew up in Ontario helping his Dad make their own homely wines and share them over family dinners cooked by mom. Years later when he partnered with Winemaker Philip Soo there was no doubt or hesitation that they would focus on Italian varietals. Philip, a seasoned Winemaker and consultant, shared a strong passion and desire to make these unique, high quality Italian wines. Not just as a point of difference, but to honour the true essence of the Bonamici brand as well as the ethos of gathering, sharing and connection to tradition.
Their business began in 2012, making wines using facilities at another winery, with grapes purchased from a close contact of Phil’s. In 2016, after careful research they purchased property in Okanagan Falls. The key selling point was having orientation of both south- and west-facing vineyards, allowing for whites, lighter reds, and bigger reds to thrive. The land had just been contoured - no vines were planted yet. So, they got to work and completed plantings between 2017-2019. As the young vines became ready to shine, Bonamici started releasing single-varietal wines in 2021. The La Famiglia collection highlights Italian heritage with unique varietals in BC, and these 5 wines are featured below.
Winemaker Philip Soo, Bonamici Cellars
Bonamici Insieme 2022
Committed to setting themselves apart from the rest, Bonamici offers this blend of two aromatic varieties - Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. These are not conventionally paired together anywhere in the world, but it does work. The Sauvignon Blanc provides bright fresh acidity and some greenness (gooseberry, lemongrass) while the Viognier lends floral highlights and a soft, round, peachy body that makes this a very approachable and juicy wine. You need not recoil in anticipation of a searing, austere Sauv Blanc - this is playful and cheery. It paired excellently with an onion and gruyere tart drizzled with balsamic glaze.
Bonamici 2021 Pinot Nero
What a delightful Pinot Noir with BC character. It’s pale garnet in colour with generous oak on the nose, although it is well integrated with the red cherry, strawberry, stewed rhubarb and spice notes. The style is refined and elegant, medium bodied and structured by nimble acidity and fine, mellow tannins. Flavours of dried cranberries, red currants, and strawberry rhubarb pie coalesce with vanilla, coffee, and earth. A quintessential fall wine to enjoy a cool woodsy stroll from the comfort of home.
Bonamici 2021 Barbera
One of very few examples of this Piedmontese variety in the Okanagan. Expectations will be subverted for those who are familiar with the high acid, low tannin wines of Alba and Asti. One must evaluate this wine on its own merit, and this it has in abundance. Inhalation is a rich and decadent experience with red and black plums, blackberries, cherries, cocoa, cloves, and vanilla, blanketed in smoke. Acidity and tannins agree to meet in the middle here, and offer a succulent and satisfying texture akin to a BC Syrah. A polished, knockout wine with depth.
Bonamici Sangiovese 2022
For this vintage, all their Sangiovese went into a single-varietal since the Belviaggio blend from 2020 was still plentiful, and the 2021 is still to be released. The decision was wise, as the wine was awarded Gold at the 2024 All Canadian Wine Championships. Aged 15 months in French oak (40% new), this is a fine wine indeed, but don’t expect a Sangiovese as you might know it from Tuscany. I almost questioned whether this was a mislabeled Pinot Noir - so pale is the ruby shimmer and delicate the tannins. A bit shy, with aromas of bright red fruit like raspberry and plum, along with some spice and tea-leaf earthiness. The body is airy and lifted with food-friendly acidity - Pinot Noir-adjacent for sure.
Bonamici Belviaggio 2020
Bonamici’s flagship red wine, a powerful BC Super Tuscan blend of 32% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, and 18% Sangiovese. Aged 16 months in French oak, 50% being new and imparting potent complexity. The All Canadian Wine Championships awarded this wine Double Gold in 2023. The toasty spice notes and vanilla are accompanied by dark fruit compote and savoury tobacco and bay leaves. This is a wine of fortitude and grace, textural elements nearly maxed out across a broad palate with a long, satisfying finish of dark chocolate. Gorgeous and addictive.
In sadder news, Bonamici’s vineyards were hurt by the winter freezes, and they will not have a harvest this year. Just some Pinot Gris coming in from Washington is all that will get turned into wine. However, like others they are sitting on plenty of stock, with lots of 2022 and some 2021 wines still to be released in spring. These include the 2021 Belviaggio, and 2022 Reserve Syrah.
While they are certainly unique and special, it is quality, not novelty, that is the trademark of Bonamici’s wines. They are focused, well-made, and delicious, and indeed best enjoyed in the company of loved ones. Be sure to stop by the next time you’re in Okanagan Falls, meet Mario and his wife Vicky or Phil and his wife Treena, and take home something new to share with your own.
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).