BC 2024 Harvest Report - What is, and what could be
Photo credit: Wines of BC (Jon Adrian)
Where one has the good fortune to harvest grapes in BC this year, these undertakings have begun. Things are looking very different, as expected, but still more positive than initially foretold. Extensive as the January freeze damage has been, all is not lost. Driving through vineyard areas now is a meager sight, with much brown where there should be green. But wines shall be made nonetheless, in one way or another.
Our local producers have responded to crisis in diverse fashions, according to their means and plans for the future. Many will have no crop, and must rely on still unreleased vintages to come out of barrel and storage when ready, to bridge the gap till the next release. Some will make do with what little crop they have. Others have turned to our southern neighbours with outstretched hands and built new relationships.
Our friends at Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars are in the second camp. They harvested precious little grapes this year, but are forging ahead with just-released Reserve wines and single-block editions from the sensational 2022 vintage. Don’t miss out on these exciting Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Also exemplifying this group is Painted Rock, having already wrapped up with their 2024 harvest - just a couple estate wines are all they’ll produce this year. 8th Generation Vineyard is here too, making wines from their limited estate fruit and partnered BC-only growers.
In the last group, Spanish white wine especialistas at Terravista Vineyards will be making a limited production from the healthy vines that remain on their property. They’ve also partnered with growers in the US who specialize in Albariño and Verdejo to push the envelope of their house style. In fact the first 2024 bottling - a sparkling Albariño from California grapes - will be released this November!
Ron (Lightning Rock Winery) has taken on a new role—wine trucker—as he makes the four-eight hour journey to and from the various U.S. sites to bring these grapes home.
Exciting announcements have come out from many other BC producers who have established connections with Washington wineries and growers. Most will be sourcing grapes from specific vineyards, carefully chosen to closely reflect the style they (and we) are used to. Lightning Rock, Dirty Laundry, Stone Boat Vineyards, Hester Creek, Gehringer Brothers, Winemaker’s CUT, River Stone, Clos du Soleil, Corcelettes, and Orofino are among many that will be (or have already been) trucking in premium fruit from new partners just a few hours drive from here. Blasted Church have also shared they will be procuring the juice of Washington grapes to transform into wines locally. Bartier Bros will be doing the same for white wines only.
Roche Wines visiting Winter's Hill farms | 25 acres on the spectacular southwest slopes of the Dundee Hills, an ancient volcanic formation 700 feet above the Willamette River.
Roche Wines of Penticton are also taking advantage of temporary changes to licensing regulations, and procuring freshly pressed grapes and their juice from the famed Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The first of these wines made from Oregon grapes will be bottled in Spring 2025.
Roche is committed to ensuring each of these bottles have a unique label, identifying its origin and telling the exceptional story of how this came to be.
Taking their own hybrid approach, Lillooet pioneers at Fort Berens will be making some estate wines and also shipping in unfinished wine from Washington State to be matured and bottled here in BC. Their assistant winemaker is down south to oversee harvest, crush/press and fermentation before sending the product north for completion. Likewise, La Stella and Le Vieux Pin will be making some estate wines, and also purchasing both grapes and juice from select Washington growers and winemakers. They also have plenty of 2022 and 2023 wines available now or yet to be released. Thompson Valley’s Privato Vineyard have similar plans, with a twist - they will be bringing in finished wine from Washington.
Up in Lake Country, Arrowleaf Cellars are embracing ‘yes and’ thinking. They will be making some wines from estate grapes, upcycling the skins for piquette (see my previous article on this economical and practical beverage), and shipping in grapes from both Washington and Ontario. A true shotgun approach!
Photo credit: Wines of BC
And what of the Shuswap - they have a lot more cool-climate varietals and hybrids, so how are they doing? James Clark, winemaker and vineyard manager at Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery fills us in. “Things are very similar to last year with minimal fruit. Our white varieties and Pinot Noir have next to nothing this year.” Their Marechal Foch is looking great, thankfully, and other hybrids are sourced from partnered growers. Sunnybrae is also bringing in fruit from Vancouver Island and Washington this year.
Sunnybrae’s white varietals were more severely affected by the freezes, but less than 1% of vines were killed. James shares his optimism: “We put a lot of labour into pruning and canopy work to maximize options in 2025 and so far it looks like our plan is well, going to plan!” He will be delaying further pruning until late winter. Looking to the future, James says, “we have talked about other hybrid options if a re-plant or expansion were to take place. For now we continue to watch the weather forecast as always and remain positive in our plans for vineyard recovery.”
Photo credit: Wines of BC
If you couldn’t already tell, he’s excited for what lies ahead. “We feel fortunate that our vineyard looks to be in good shape for the 2025 season and overall, are embracing this different vintage with wines that are new and exciting for us!”
What will sustain Sunnybrae’s production line and the continuation of their story goes beyond just grapes and wines. “Aside from our relationships with other growers and wineries in the province, it is our customers that we ultimately rely on. Despite the challenges it is always a good time hosting people and their company and showing them a good time.” For 2024, Sunnybrae will be producing wines they feel are best suited to their portfolio. “We really hope our customers will enjoy them and continue to support us!”
One winery has chosen a unique strategy that prioritizes British Columbians by utilizing a network of existing community relationships. Mark Simpson is the Co-owner and Winemaker at Mythology Vineyard in Osoyoos, BC, and is a winemaking consultant as proprietor of Artisan Food and Beverage Group. For the 2023 vintage, he partnered with Alderlea Vineyards in the Cowichan Valley to boost his own low crop yield. He’s done the same this year, in addition to sourcing Fraser Valley fruit (Petit Milo and Cabernet Foch) for a blended skin contact rosé. These two areas - Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland - were not severely affected by the extreme cold temperatures that wreaked havoc on the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys.
Photo Credit: Mythology Vineyard
In terms of vineyard management, Mark is letting his ‘profoundly injured’ yet surviving vines grow with minimal pruning, developing a full canopy. This strong photosynthetic engine draws all the sap up through the trunk to promote healing. It works well for his vineyard of old, self-rooted vines. Provided there’s not another cold snap this winter, he expects a good harvest next year - but only time will tell.
But vine training is only a small part of the story of recovery. What is different about Mythology’s strategy, and what is the greater goal? To answer the latter, it’s the same as everyone else in this business - building BC’s wine economy. Mark is manifesting his vision for a healthy, resilient, domestic market. In this model, individuals and businesses can turn to each other and exchange goods and services in mutually beneficial trade. He calls it a ‘collaborative ecosystem.’ You offer fruit, I offer winemaking expertise or facilities. OK Crush Pad successfully follows this model in providing their equipment to multiple wine labels, as does Bartier Bros. In Mark’s view, ideally this model would become national in scope.
The problem he sees with the industry is this: “Our achilles heel is that Canada-wide collaboration doesn’t exist. The VQA systems in BC and Ontario aren’t compatible. This forces BC winemakers to go to Washington [for grapes] when there’s tons available in our own country.” Mark has also produced a piquette using red and white grape skins from partnered Hornby Heart Vineyard - demonstrating the lengths one can go to make a BC wine product in tough times without even using grapes. “As a winemaking nation we need to come together. In a time of crisis, let’s celebrate our BC identity.”
What effects all this US collaboration will have on BC’s wine economy and wine identity remain to be seen. Dilution seems likely, according to Mark. But that hasn’t stopped him from also sourcing some Sauvignon Blanc from Washington. He’s just doing everything he can to prosper, while conscientiously realizing that collaborative ecosystem. How many will follow his example, and will it be enough? After all, everyone’s in the same boat right now, scratching their heads over how best to move forward.
It’s a method that works for Mark, and one that he’ll continue to champion in the years to come. Whether the year’s harvest is bountiful or bereft, those relationships with other BC businesses should ensure that quality BC product is always available, and the people behind it are busy making it happen.
Featured wines
Mythology Aphrodite 2023 - new release!
Sea-view Alderlea Vineyard in the Cowichan valley supplied the Pinot Blanc and Siegerrebe that make up this collaborative blend, exemplifying the current BC wine landscape. The wine rested on lees with biweekly batonnage for 6 months. The aromas are of subdued lemon, Asian pear, peach, honeydew melon, grapefruit, and yellow apple. Anything you might have missed is on the middleweight palate with jabs of citrus and back to back crosses and hooks of orchard fruit, melon, and star fruit. Attention everyone: this wine is delicious. Punchy, fruity, and a little creamy, this wine celebrates the harvest of BC fruit and is perfectly suited to any al fresco affectation.
Mythology White Merlot 2022
100% estate Merlot is used to make this rosé. This particular version under cork is aged for a year in a neutral vessel to encourage a little more development. Complex and matured rosés like this are few and far between. The colour alone stands on its own - a tawny red-orange dusk. On the nose are aromas of stewed red plum, applesauce, red currant, Worthers Originals, thyme, and fresh dough. If you’ve ever had a Tavel from the Southern Rhône, this is the closest comparison I can think of - although this has more complexity of flavour. Swimming through the medium+ bodied palate are flavours of fresh and dried red fruit, herbs, and pastry. Definitely one of a kind and with a mere 30 cases produced, this won’t last long. If you’re lucky enough to acquire one, don’t delay drinking it any further.
Mythology Piquette
Packaged in standard 355 ml cans, this one isn’t named or labeled yet but I got to taste a sample. It’s a gorgeous grenadine colour, lovely fizz and low in alcohol, a touch of sweetness and very refreshing. There are clearly some Marechal Foch skins used here, giving a distinct aroma of fresh currant and potpourri. I’m loving the local popularization of this fun and uncomplicated product.
Sunnybrae Twisted Path 2023
Created in response to challenge and hardship, this blend of Siegerrebe, Ortega, Petit Milo, and L’Acadie Blanc symbolizes changing course to make the best of one’s situation. Evidently the twisted path has led them true. The bright, pale wine in the glass shines with the starlight that may have guided its design. It’s bursting with juicy aromatics in the likeness of Muscat and Gewürztraminer; a constellation of ripe fruits like white peach, canary melon, and golden delicious apple, along with some floral accents of delicate white flowers. The palate is also all primary fruit, fresh and lively with mouthwatering acidity and balanced sweetness. What a pity (but no surprise) that they’re all sold out.
Sunnybrae Pinot Noir 2022
Grapes come from a single vineyard on their estate. You can tell it’s a far north latitude Pinot Noir from the way that it is. But seriously, the acidity is higher than you’ll often find in BC Pinots of more southerly origins (which might actually be all of them?). The nose is restrained, humbly offering stewed red cherries, strawberries, and a breath of violets, as well as toasty oak notes and warm spice. An earthiness lies at the core, fungi and tobacco leaf, providing a bit more complexity to this light red wine with gentle tannins. A docile, contemplative BC Pinot Noir, if not for the bracing acidity. Approachability is curtailed in exchange for structural precision.
People like James and Mark are working tirelessly behind the scenes to keep their BC wine businesses prosperous, and to continue providing quality wines for us to enjoy. It’s the least we can do at this critical time in our history to support our local heroes. We can do that by drinking, promoting, recommending, drinking, purchasing, and drinking what these folks can transform from a BC harvest. Because ultimately, it’s not grapes that will save BC’s wine industry - it’s people. I’m a people, and if you’re reading this, you are too. Join me in celebrating BC’s amazing wines and the people behind them.
This blog post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney.